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Dr Barbara Sturm Molecular Cosmetics is a German skincare range that is built around anti-inflammatory ingredients. Founded by Dr. Barbara Sturm, an aesthetics doctor and former orthopedic surgeon. If you aren’t familiar with Dr. Sturm, you may have heard about the the procedure she invented, the ‘vampire facial’ that uses the patients own white blood cells in a micro needling treatment and custom made moisturizer. This is obviously only available by prescription to a select few who can afford it, like the celebrities who have popularized the procedure. In 2014 she released to the general public her skincare line, Dr. Barbara Sturm Molecular Cosmetics. “Everything we ingest or touch, including the air and water, contains inflammatory triggers. Combating inflammation has been a central target of my entire medical career,” says Dr Barbara Sturm. The line is focused around reducing inflammation and highlights the use of their signature ingredient purslane as an antioxidant at the centre of the range. The products are formulated for those who want a simple regimen that addresses common skin concerns such as dryness, inflammation, and skin-aging.
What are the Key Ingredients in the Line?
Purslane or Portulaca Oleracea Extract comes from the vegetable used for many centuries as a Korean herbal medicine for its analgesic and anti-inflammatory properties. It is the best known plant source of omega-3 fatty acids, and contains many vitamins and minerals that are beneficial to the skin. It was chosen for its high antioxidant content.
Antioxidants are compounds that help protect the skin’s cells from oxidative damage caused by free radicals. Free radicals are formed when the skin contacts UV radiation, pollution or as a part of normal cellular functioning. They are unstable molecules that attack cell membranes by taking electrons and are known factors in causing both internal and external damage to healthy cells. Antioxidants help to stabilize free radicals by donating one of their electrons and neutralizing the cascading effect of cellular damage.
When too many free radicals accumulate they cause oxidative stress, which results in collagen breaking down, delays in the skins natural repair process and inflammation. It also disrupts the skin barrier and alters the skin microbiome. This results in visible aesthetic changes like discoloration, sagging, sensitivity, acne, fine lines, and more. By topically applying antioxidants you can help neutralize reactions which might result in these conditions and keep the skin looking and feeling healthier and younger.
The rest of the key ingredients used throughout the Dr. Barbara Sturm line consist of hyaluronic acid, botanical extracts, such as sweet almond oil, ginseng, cardiospermum, and more. Hyaluronic acid is also frequently used in the product formulations.
Face Cream Rich
Perfect for more mature skin or complexions that need extra hydration during the winter months. It’s also suitable as a day cream for dry skin. It is a thick moisturizer containing anti-ageing powerhouses skullcap and purslane to keep skin hydrated and firm, day and night. It also calms skin and reduces the signs of irritation.
Who Would Benefit From This Product?
People with dull and dry skin. Suitable also for sensitive skin. Those who don’t like a heavy moisturizer might preferer the light version.
How to Incorporate into Your Routine:
Use after cleansing the skin. Apply gently to the face, neck and décolleté as well as to delicate skin around the eyes.
INCI List:
Aqua/Water/Eau, Octyldodecanol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Decyl Oleate, Zea Mays (Corn) Germ Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides, Lactobacillus/Portulaca Oleracea Ferment Extract, Sorbitol, Propanediol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Cocoglycerides, Dimethicone, Tocopheryl Acetate, Baicalin, Panthenol, Squalane, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pantolactone, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Citric Acid, Ascorbic Acid, Phenoxyethanol.
Key Ingredients:
- Purslane an antioxidant that provides soothing, protective and moisturizing benefits.
- Skullcap extract is a potent antioxidant compound that is rich in flavonoids and other bioactive elements, including terpenes and volatile oils. It has been used for over 2,000 years as a key component of traditional herbal medicine used in the management of acne, eczema, and even psoriasis. Studies Skullcap extract is also a very potent tyrosinase inhibitor with potential to downregulate melanin production, thereby reducing pigmentation.
- Panthenol is the pro-vitamin (biologically active precursor) to Vitamin B5 (pantothenic acid) present in all body cells and plays an essential role in cellular metabolism. In skincare it functions as a moisturizer and emollient, and is especially useful for calming irritation, relieving itching, healing wounds and treating sunburn. When applied topically, it attracts water from the atmosphere, reduces water loss, reduces inflammation and helps heal skin damaged by exposure to irritation, including that caused by sulphates. It can also help with antiaging by increase fibroblast proliferation increasing collagen and elastin synthesis and reducing pigmentation by inhibiting melanin.
- Avocado Oil is derived from the pulp of the fruit and is a rich, fatty-acid emollient, considered to be the most moisturizing of any fruit oil. Avocados are a rich source of antioxidants and have long been used to nourish dry skin.
- Squalane is a skin-identical ingredient naturally produced by the sebaceous glands and is a constituent of sebum along with triglycerides and wax esters. Its function is to hydrate and maintain the moisture barrier of the skin.
The rest of the formula primarily consists of emollients (skin softeners) and humectants (water-binding ingredients), such as glycerin, shea butter, and fatty alcohols. These ingredients will hydrate and give the skin a soft appearance.
Dr Barbara Sturm products are made without Animal products, gluten, sulphates, mineral oil, parabens, phthalates and fragrance.
pH Testing:
A I got a pH result of 5.8. The pH of this cream is within the pH of the skin (range 4.0-6.0, average 4.7). This will assist the skin in returning to its optimal acidity level after cleansing and ensure it maintains its optimal moisture balance and overall health. Learn why the pH of skincare products is so important here.
My Experience:
I do really enjoy this moisturizer. It contains gentle yet effective ingredients and is fragrance-free which is a must for my skin. It’s thick and rich and really does a great job moisturizing stubborn dry patches. A little goes a long way and this lasts a long time, but I still don’t find myself reaching for it every night just due to the price and my desire to use other products with more active ingredients. Instead, I have saved the remaining ¼ of the jar to use as a spot treatment for any dry flaky areas that need extra hydration before I apply makeup. I like the formula and how nourishing and comforting it is on the skin, but I just don’t see myself repurchasing due to the price of what is essentially a basic moisturizer. I also dislike having to deal with potential hygiene issues with jar packaging, and knowing antioxidants are easily oxidized when exposed to light and air, making this type of packaging questionable for a product that is centered around its antioxidant properties.
Final thoughts:
If you’re looking for a basic moisturizer to hydrate and moisturize dry skin, the Dr. Barbara Sturm Face Cream Rich could be a good option. It’s not the most innovative formula and it only contains a small number of active ingredients, especially considering what you’d expect to get for the price of this product, but it is an effective formula for hydrating dry skin that needs a little extra help.
The Dr. Barbara Sturm Face Cream Rich (US$230/50ml).
References:
Huang, Lee, et. al., (2006). Antioxidative and Anti-Inflammatory Activities of Polyhydroxyflavonoids of Scutellaria Baicalensis, GEORGI, Biosci. Biotech. Biochem., 70(10): 2371-80.
Miao, Kayahara, et. al., (1997). Superoxide-scavenging and Tyrosinase-inhibitory Activities of the Ex-tracts of Some Chinese Medicines, Biosci. Biotech. Biochem., 61(12): 2106-08.
Surjanto, Reveny, J., Tanuwijaya, J., Tias, A., & Calson (2016). Comparison of Anti-Aging Effect Between Vitamin B3 and Provitamin B5 Using Skin Analyzer.
Camargo FB Jr, Gaspar LR, Maia Campos PM. Skin moisturizing effects of panthenol-based formulations. J Cosmet Sci. 2011 Jul-Aug;62(4):361-70. PMID: 21982351.
Chan K, Islam MW, Kamil M, Radhakrishnan R, Zakaria MN, Habibullah M, Attas A. The analgesic and anti-inflammatory effects of Portulaca oleracea L. subsp. Sativa (Haw.) Celak. J Ethnopharmacol. 2000 Dec;73(3):445-51. doi: 10.1016/s0378-8741(00)00318-4. PMID: 11090998.
Uddin MK, Juraimi AS, Hossain MS, Nahar MA, Ali ME, Rahman MM. Purslane weed (Portulaca oleracea): a prospective plant source of nutrition, omega-3 fatty acid, and antioxidant attributes. ScientificWorldJournal. 2014 Feb 10;2014:951019. doi: 10.1155/2014/951019. PMID: 24683365; PMCID: PMC3934766.
Ghimire GP, Thuan NH, Koirala N, Sohng JK. Advances in Biochemistry and Microbial Production of Squalene and Its Derivatives. J Microbiol Biotechnol. 2016 Mar;26(3):441-51. doi: 10.4014/jmb.1510.10039. PMID: 26643964.
